THIS IS ANOTHER STUDY SHOWING IMPACT OF HOME APPLIED PESTICIDES ON WATER QUALITY
How Are Pesticides Affecting Water Quality?
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Contamination of creeks, rivers, and oceans
California creeks, rivers, and oceans are being contaminated with pesticides and other chemicals commonly used around our homes and gardens. These garden chemicals are not only a threat to aquatic life, but they can also affect the quality of our drinking water.
Toxicity to living organisms
All pesticides are toxic at some level, but each varies in their toxicity to humans and other animals. Organophosphates, including diazinon and chlorpyrifos, are insecticides that contain phosphorus; they are nerve poisons and act by inhibiting important enzymes in the nervous system in animals. Pyrethroids are another class of insecticides that are not as toxic to humans and other mammals, but are quite toxic to fish and invertebrates. Both the organophosphates and pyrethroids pose serious threats to aquatic invertebrates in California waterways.
Known problem pesticides: pyrethroids and organophosphates
Pyrethroids are common residential insecticides, found in products for ant control, home lawn, garden and landscape care, as well as in structural pest control products. Common pyrethroid active ingredients in home use products include bifenthrin, cypermethrin, permethrin, and cyfluthrin. Pyrethroids mimic the mode of action of the plant-derived pesticide pyrethrin, but are much more toxic and persistent in the environment. They attach to soil particles and are washed into waterways on sediment.
Organophosphate pesticides containing diazinon and chlorpyrifos were widely used in the 1990s but were withdrawn from the market for home use in the early 2000s because of risks to children. These materials are highly soluble in water and have been found in California creeks at levels toxic to aquatic invertebrates. The U.S. EPA’s Office of Pesticide Programs summary sheets explain why these pesticides are no longer available to urban users.
Diazinon (448K, PDF)
Chlorpyrifos (792K, PDF)
Known problem pesticides (cont.)
You may still have products containing diazinon and chlorpyrifos on a shelf in your garage. If you have these products, dispose of them at your local Household Hazardous Waste site. Call 1-800-CLEANUP (1-800-253-2687) to find a disposal site in your area.
Other organophosphate insecticides are still available for home use include malathion, acephate and disulfoton. These products are also water soluble, broadly toxic and pose risks for aquatic organisms. Avoid their use where possible and keep them out of our waterways.
Select pesticides carefully before you buy or apply
The first step in choosing a pesticides is to accurately identify the pest. If a pesticide is needed, select one that is effective against your pest and also poses the least risks to human health and the environment. Refer to the home and garden pests section of this website for environmentally friendly solutions. Pesticide labels provide information on the active (toxic) ingredients contained in a product. Always read the label before applying a pesticide.
Learn how to read a pesticide label
All pesticides must be used with caution and should never be allowed to go into stormwater, drains, or creeks. For some pesticides, the full impact on the environment is not known.
Learn how pesticides get into storm water
THIS IS THE BROCURE PROVIDED BY FIRST LIGHT TO CANDLEWOOD LAKE SHORELINE OWNERS. THIS IS TO SHOW BEST PRACTICES FOR LANDSCAPE ALONG THE SHORELINE TO BEST PROTECT THE LAKE.
WE RECOMMEND SHORELINE OWNERS AT WOODRIDGE LAKLE FOLLOW THESE PRACTICES.
TO VIEW THE BROCHURE PLEASE CLICK BELOW:
This illustration shows how fertilizer runoff from our lawns and gardens impact Woodridge Lake. The fertilizers feed weeds and algae. These weeds then die off and fall to the lake bottom creating a Peat/Muck layer which feed the weeds for the next season.
go site “A LAKE IS NOT A SWIMMING POOL”
Is Your Lake Getting Healthier?
Posted on: 03-29-2013 by: jtucci (Lake Savers blog)
The 3 Most Important Questions No Consultant or Treatment Company Wants You to Ask
The future of your lake depends on the answer to three simple questions:
(1)How healthy is my lake right now?
(2)Is it healthier today than it was a year ago, two years ago, etc.?
(3)How is your current Lake Management Program imacting Lake Health?
If you are spending money to “manage” or treat your lake, you should know what impact your dollars are having on lake health. If your lake isn’t getting healthier as a result of your management or treatment program, then what are you really getting for your money?
Ask your Lake Management Consultant or Treatment Company if your lake is actually getting healthier. Force them to show you the data that proves it. If they show you a map of how weed growth has been reduced due to herbicide treatment, tell them to try again.
Weed growth is not a reliable indicator of lake health on a lake that is treated with herbicides. Your consultant or treatment company should and probably DOES know better. They are most likely just trying to avoid the question. They know that the typical Lake Management Program DOES NOTHING to improve lake health over time.
In fact, it has been well established scientifically that long-term herbicide treatment ACCELERATES lake decline. Chemically treated dead weeds release their nutrients back into the water leading to increased algae growth and diminished water quality. Sustained use of herbicides also accelerates the accumulation of nutrient-laden muck at the bottom which reduces lake depth and feeds the next cycle of weed growth. This same dynamic occurs in lakes that are chemically treated for algae.
More Weeds, More Algae, Declining Water Quality and Higher Costs
The result of most Lake Management Programs is MORE WEEDS and MORE ALGAE over time and higher treatment costs. This is great for the Treatment/Management Company, but no so great for the people paying the bills and horrible for the lake.
Lake health can be measured. Here are a few indicators:
• Dissolved Oxygen from surface to bottom – higher is better
• Nutrient levels (phosphorus and nitrogen) – lower is better
• Water clarity – higher is better
• Health and composition of the algal community
• Depth of organic muck on the bottom – less is better
So insist that your current Management/Treatment Provider show you proof that their program is making your lake healthier. Your lake depends on it!
Practice natural and organic carpenter ant control for a SAFE and chemical free home.
Carpenter Ants (Camponotus spp.) cause damage by tunneling and nesting inside wood structures. However, unlike termites, they do not feed on wood, but burrow into it to build their nests. They usually prefer damp, decaying lumbar that is easy to excavate and rarely cause harm to sound structures.
Note: Few pests cause more panic among homeowners than those involving wood-destroying insects.
Carpenter ants are large (3/8 – 3/4 inch long) when compared to most ants and black, reddish brown or yellowish in color, depending on the species. They are often found inside during spring. However, their presence is not sufficient enough evidence to conclude that there is a nest inside your home. Concerned homeowners should try to determine whether the ants are coming from an outdoor or an indoor nest, although this can be difficult. To do so, you may be able to make a more accurate determination based on when you first see the ants.
Tip: According to the University of Minnesota Extension Service, if you find carpenter ants in your home during late winter or early spring, that suggests the ants are coming from a nest inside your house. However, if you see activity later in the year, it is less clear if the nest is inside. In almost all cases, ants seen indoors during winter are an indication that there is an inside nest. One exception is when ants are brought indoors in firewood.
Ant colonies are founded by a single fertilized queen which lays approximately 15-20 eggs after establishing a nesting site in a cavity in wood. She feeds the developing young with salivary secretions and does not eat or leave the nest during this time. The queen has few duties except to lay eggs. The workers which are reared first assume the task of gathering food with which to feed the younger larvae. They are also responsible for excavating galleries to enlarge the nest and tending the eggs, larvae and pupae of the next generation. Colonies grow very rapidly and reach a peak population (approximately 3,000 workers) within 3-6 years. At this time, winged reproductive females are produced and fly off to establish new colonies.
Carpenter Ant Control
Prevent excess moisture accumulation in wood through good maintenance of the house structure and surroundings.
Repair existing damage, then cut off ant access routes.
Eliminate potential nesting areas by repairing injured trees and removing stumps and wood debris.
Prune branches that touch the house and eliminate wood/earth contact with structures.
Broadcast least-toxic, weather-resistant TERRO Ant Bait Plus around exterior structures, trees, stumps and firewood piles. Reapply every four weeks, as needed.
Apply Insect Killer Granules around foundations, lawns and landscaped areas to eliminate or repel all kinds of troublesome insects.
Apply Bora-Care directly to ALL untreated wood surfaces. Its patented formula penetrates deep into wood and provides long-lasting protection against boring insect damage.
Locate nests by trailing workers and searching for frass piles (insect feces) and saw-dust like wood shavings. If nests are found, apply non-toxic diatomaceous earth or boric acid powder to eliminate colonies.
If pest populations become intolerable, spot treat with a fast-acting botanical insecticide. These natural sprays have shorter half-lives and less toxicity as commercial chemical pesticides.
Check firewood carefully for insects prior to bringing inside and monitor closely once the wood warms.
Tip: Store firewood off the ground and as far from the house as practical.
Learn how to get rid of mosquitoes using time-tested, organic and natural techniques.
Mosquitoes are among the most serious of insect pests attacking humans and affect the lives of vast numbers of people worldwide. Approximately 3000 different species are found throughout the world of which 150 species occur in the United States. They carry some of the most widespread and devastating human disease agents including West Nile virus, encephalitis and malaria. Mosquitoes are also responsible for transmitting heart-worm in dogs. These diseases, infections and illnesses are now found in just about every part of the United States.
At the time of feeding, the female pierces the skin and injects saliva, which is responsible for the irritation that follows. Blood taken from humans or other animals infected with disease-producing organisms in turn infects the mosquito which transmits them to future hosts.
http://paulfentonphotography.com/portfolio-masonry-layout/ Life Cycle
The mosquito has four distinct stages in its life cycle: egg, larva, pupa and adult. A large number of species overwinter as eggs, others as larvae or adults. All have one common requirement – they need stagnant or standing water to complete their life cycle. After a blood meal the female develops her eggs. (Adult males do not bite and feed solely on plant nectar.) One blood meal supplies enough nutrients for her to produce several hundred eggs which she will lay in or around water. Depending on the species, the eggs are either attached to one another to form a raft or they are laid individually and float on the water. Eggs hatch within days releasing larvae, commonly called “wrigglers,” which feed on microorganisms in the water until they pupate 7-10 days later. Adults emerge 1-4 days later and can live for a period of four to eight weeks. There are several overlapping generations throughout the season. In warmer regions breeding occurs year round.
Breeding sites include:
Storm water retention areas
Unfortunately, there is no easy solution for managing mosquitoes. Countless natural techniques vary depending on the pest level, water supply, cost and risk of disease. Many products are available, but nothing is absolutely foolproof. Here are some suggestion:
follow link Habitat Modification
The most effective method for reducing mosquito numbers is to eliminate their breeding sites (standing water). The following steps will help:
Eliminate standing water in rain gutters, old tires, buckets, plastic covers, toys or any other container where pests can breed.
Empty and change the water in bird baths, fountains, wading pools, rain barrels and potted plant trays at least once a week to destroy potential habitats.
Drain or fill temporary pools of water with dirt.
Keep swimming pool water treated and circulating.
Mosquitoes are a pervasive outdoor pest. Nonetheless, there are measures that can be taken to minimize the annoyance and incidence of bites. For example;
Use natural, organic insect repellents and wear protective clothing when pests are most active.
Make sure that window and door screens are “bug tight.”
Use head nets, long sleeves and long pants if you venture into areas with high pest populations such as salt marshes.
Replace your outdoor lights with yellow “bug” lights which tend to attract fewer insects than ordinary lights.
Mosquito Beater Granules and Spray use food grade oils to naturally repel biting insects for 2-3 weeks!
Kill the immature larval stage before it can develop into a flying, biting adult with Bacillus thuringiensis var israelensis (Bt-i). Available under various trade names, including Microbe-Lift® BMC, Bt-i is a naturally occurring and highly specific biological pesticide. Applied to standing water, it is effective for up to 30 days and will not harm people, pets, wildlife or fish.
Flying, biting adults rest in protected areas during the day. To reduce populations, use a Mosquito Fogger — made from organic plant oils — or spray natural pesticides on shrubs, the lower limbs of shade trees, under decks, along foundations and other pest resting sites.
Caution: Botanical insecticides containing pyrethrin are not specific to the pest and will have an impact on a variety of beneficial insects including valuable predators, parasites and honeybees. However, most break-down quickly in the environment lasting only 5-7 days.
There are over 800 species of ticks found worldwide. Here’s how to get rid of them in your yard using proven, organic and natural techniques.
A blood feeding external parasite of mammals, birds and reptiles, ticks are important vectors of disease causing agents. They attach firmly to their host, feed slowly and may go unnoticed for several days while feeding. As a result, ticks transmit the widest variety of pathogens of any blood sucking arthropod. Some human diseases of interest include Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever.
Adults (1/4 inch long) have eight legs and are reddish-brown with white or yellow irregular markings on their body. Females are slightly larger than males, and can grow as large as 1/2 inch long after a blood meal. To feed, they grab onto a host, secrete an anesthetic and painlessly burrow into the skin with their mouth parts. Bites can cause skin irritations or even allergic reactions in some people.
Note: Ticks are divided into two groups: hard and soft. Hard ticks have a shield on their backs and are tapered at the head end; they are the most easily recognized by people. Soft ticks lack the shield-like plate, have a blunt head end and look like pieces of bark or debris. Both groups are important vectors of disease.
The widely distributed American dog tick overwinters in all stages, except as eggs. Adults are prevalent in the spring, and after obtaining a blood meal and mating, females deposit up to 4,000 eggs in large masses on the ground. Hatching occurs in 30 or more days, and the 6-legged larval stage crawls onto surrounding vegetation where it clings to any passing animals that rub against it. After a 3-12 day feeding period, larvae drop off and molt into 8-legged nymphs. After feeding on yet another host, nymphs again drop off and molt into young adults. The cycle may be completed during a period of a few weeks to a year or more.
Keep grass and weeds trimmed and remove wood piles to reduce harborage for tick hosts.
Whenever possible, stay out of pest infested areas, grassy pastures, prairies and wooded areas.
Restrict movement of your pets.
When entering infested areas, wear long-sleeved shirts, and long trousers with tight-fitting cuffs.
Wear light-colored clothing. Ticks are easier to see on a light background.
Use Herbal Pet Collars, or one of our other least-toxic products to protect dogs and cats.
Broadcast EcoSMART® Insect Killer Granules around foundations, lawns and landscapes to eliminate or repel all kinds of problem pests.
Apply food-grade Diatomaceous Earth for long-lasting protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
Spray pet bedding and kennels with plant-based formulas specifically designed to keep these unhealthy nuisances at bay. Containing no harmful residues, they are SAFE to use around homes, children and pets.
Broad spectrum, organic neem oil disrupts the growth and development of pest insects and has repellent and anti-feedant properties. Best of all, it is non-toxic to honey bees and many other beneficial insects.
If pest populations become intolerable, spot treat problem areas with a fast-acting botanical insecticide such as Safer® Mosquito & Tick Killer. This natural spray persists for about two weeks and has less toxicity than commercial chemical pesticides.
Tip: Frequent inspection and quick removal of ticks reduces the chance of infection by Rocky Mountain spotted fever, Lyme disease and more. In addition, the risk of getting a tick-borne disease is related to the length of time it spends feeding.
How to Remove Ticks
Using tweezers or rubber gloves (avoid touching with bare hands), grasp the tick close to the skin, and with steady pressure, pull straight out.
Do not twist or jerk, as mouthparts may be left in the skin. Take care not to crush or puncture the pest during removal — fluids can be infectious.
After removal, thoroughly disinfect the feeding site and wash hands with soap and water.
There are also several commercial pest control companies which provide natural solutions to control ticks.
KEEPING PHOSPHORUS OUT OF THE LAKE IS SO IMPORTANT IN KEEPING WEEDS AND ALGEA IN CONTROL. THE FOLLOWING ARTICLE SHOWS THE IMPACT OF CONTROLLING PHOSPHORUS VERSUS CHEMICAL TREATMENTS AND MECHANICAL HARVESTING IN TERMS OF MAINTAINING A HEALTHY LAKE.
TO VIEW THE ARTICLE, PLEASE CLICK BELOW:
“A LAKE IS NOT A SWIMMING POOL”
In 2015, the WLPOA Board spent $8,000 to survey members regarding the conditions of our lake and what should be done to reduce the impact of weeds, clean water, sedimentation, etc. The results are very worth reading.
To view the results, click below: